I don’t make assertions like “THE definitive in-depth guide” unless I can back them up. And with the Greek island of Syros…trust me, I can.
Syros is the island my grandmother was born and raised on. My mom spent every summer of her life there. And as a result, so did I.
I spent my childhood darting through the narrow alleys of Ermoupoli, climbing up to Ano Syros, and exploring hiking trails, beaches, and every scenic corner of the island I could find. Then as I grew up, I started to delight in the island’s amazing restaurants, bars, and wineries.
My Personal Connection to Syros
Syros is one of my favorite places on earth. The neoclassical beauty of Ermoupoli, the small medieval streets of Ano Syros, the artsy, cultural, simultaneously vintage and classy vibe that infuses the island from shore to shore…it feels like home.
This is my labor of love to the island. A way of ensuring that any future visitors have a wonderful time exploring one of the places I call home in this world. A full guide to Syros.
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Main Menu
- History of Syros
- Where is Syros Island?
- What is Syros Known For?
- How to Get to Syros Island
- Syros Travel Guide
- Where to Stay in Syros
- Getting Around the Island
- When to Visit in Syros
- Weather in Syros
History of Syros
The capital of the Cyclades islands, the Lady of the Aegean…Syros has many formal titles and nicknames to denote its important position within this island chain. Known throughout history for being a relatively wealthy, aristocratic island, the capital city of Ermoupoli remains the capital of the Cyclades. Most of the island chain’s government buildings and offices are housed here.
In medieval times (from the 13th century onwards), it was overtaken and administrated by Venetians. During the Greek War of Independence, Syros was initially neutral. This led many Greek refugees from the coast of Asia Minor to settle here.
Syros also used to have a huge shipbuilding industry. It has now been revitalized with the reopening of the Neorion Shipyards. The port was one of the busiest in Europe, seeing incoming ships from all over the Mediterranean.
Where is Syros Island?
The island is between 30 minutes to an hour by ferry from islands like Mykonos, Tinos, and Paros. It’s smack dab in the middle of some of Greece’s most popular tourist destinations. And yet, it has retained a character all its own, avoiding many of the traps of overtourism.
The island itself is dry and rocky, like most small Aegean islands. However, it does get greener in the winter and spring months.
What is Syros Known For?
Syros’ historic wealth is reflected in the overflow of pastel-covered neoclassical buildings that cover the island’s main town and upper medieval village. As you approach the island from the port, you’ll see them spill down from the top of the two visible hills towards the sea.
Besides being known as a bastion of arts and culture among the Greek islands – a film festival is held here every summer, among other cultural events, and one of the coolest sights is the Apollo Theater, designed as a (much) smaller version of La Scala in Milan – Syros also has plenty of local authentic dishes and a great dining and cocktail scene.
Historically, Syros also had a lot of Italian influence, thanks to centuries of occupation by the Venetians. This makes Syros one of the few islands in Greece with a significant Roman Catholic, in addition to Greek Orthodox, population. Even today, you can spot both Catholic and Greek Orthodox churches dotting the landscape.
How to Get to Syros Island
Athens to Syros Ferry
Head down to the port of Piraeus and take one of the many ferries heading to Syros during the summer. At the height of summer, you can find 4-5 ferries going to the island every day.
Since Syros retains a sizeable permanent population during the winter months, winter ferry routes are also relatively frequent.
Local Tip: If you take one of the fast ferries (SeaJet or others), there is less space for cars, but the whole journey takes just over two hours. Blue Star Ferries and other big ships take longer (almost four hours), but have way more space. My advice? Book one of the fast ferries in advance if you plan to take a car. If you don’t, it’s unlikely you won’t find space for a single passenger, even on the smaller ships.
Ferries From Mykonos to Syros
If you absolutely must go to the party haven of Mykonos, you can visit Syros directly from there. Ferries from Mykonos to Syros leave frequently throughout the week, especially during the summer season, when there are 2+ per day. The journey takes 30-40 minutes in total.
Athens to Syros Flights
Though there are flights throughout the week from Athens to Syros, almost no one arrives that way. They are infrequent, sometimes unreliable, and honestly not much faster than just boarding a ferry.
A flight takes about 30 minutes, so including check-in times, waiting at the gate, and then getting to Syros Island National Airport, it probably amounts to the same time as the fast 2-hour ferry from Piraeus.
Syros Travel Guide
The Best Things To Do in Ermoupoli
Not only is Ermoupouli the main city of Syros, it is the capital of the Cyclades. This group of islands includes Mykonos, Paros, Tinos, and Naxos. As the capital, it contains a lot of the biggest administrative, cultural, medical, and other buildings of the island chain.
The entire island has a year-round population of around 20,000 people, most located in Ermoupoli. For comparison, Paros has around 14,000 inhabitants, while Mykonos has just under 11,000.
One of the best parts of exploring Ermoupoli is finding your way around the pedestrianized alleys and staircases that crisscross the town, stumbling onto majestic buildings, narrow streets with colorful overhanging flowers, and inhabitants going about their day.
Miaouli Square
The central gathering place of the city. Miaouli Square lies at the heart of Ermoupoli, just a couple of blocks up from the coastal road. Though empty during the day, in the evening, it starts teeming with life.
Kids run around playing on the square, teenagers sit on the steps of the town hall flirting, and families, couples, and friends sit at the dessert shops, cafes, and restaurants dotted around the sides of the square and pass the time chatting and people-watching.
Town Hall of Ermoupoli
Located right on Miaouli Square, the town hall is an impressive building all on its own. One of, if not the most emblematic building of Syros, the town hall was completed in the 19th century and is one of hte largest and prettiest in all of Greece.
The building is definitely worth a visit during the day to wander around inside, not to mention a glance at nighttime when it’s all lit up. It also houses the Archaeological Museum of Syros, a small but nonetheless intriguing exhibit on the island’s history, with some old artifacts on display.
Church of St. Nicholas
St. Nicholas is one of the most gorgeous churches in the Cyclades. The artwork inside the church is impressive, with the pastel colors and columns of the exterior lending the whole building a majestic quality. Like many notable buildings in Syros, St. Nicholas is perhaps best viewed in the evening, when it’s lit up in a glorious fashion.
Go to the Open Air Cinema
This is a favorite Greek pastime during the summer. Head to the open-air cinema right off Miaouli Square at least once if you have time. Showings are usually at 9 PM and 11 PM at the height of summer. This is so the projection can start after sunset, and then give enough time for a second showing to start. Get some popcorn, beer, or whatever else you want and enjoy a movie under the stars.
Try Loukoumia and Local Cheeses
Syros is best known for its local cheeses, including the famous San Michali cheese, and desserts known as loukoumia. Though loukoumia are served throughout Greece, Syros is especially famous for how delicious theirs are. Several shops by the port and in Ermoupoli sell loukoumia, but Leivadaras is by far one of the best.
Apollon Theater
Famously designed as a smaller (much smaller) version of La Scala in Milan, the Apollon Theater is symbolic of the island’s love of arts and culture. Located just behind and to the side of Miaouli Square, the Apollon Theater is worth a look. You could also check up upcoming events or concerts there to see more.
Explore (and Stay In) Vaporia
The Vaporia neighborhood, which translates to “ships” in Greek, is so named because it faces the entrance to the Port of Ermoupoli. It’s considered one of the most beautiful and upscale neighborhoods of the city. The area is quieterthan the main town with a smattering of pastel-colored neoclassical homes. Many of the island’s prettiest boutique hotels are also located here.
Vaporia used to house the rich shipowners, captains, and merchants of the islands. Many old mansion with stunning frescoes and mosaics remain; quite a few of them have been turned into the aforementioned boutique hotels, without sacrificing their original beauty. If you’re looking for the most photogenic neighborhood of the city, it’s here.
Stroll Along the Port
In the summer, most of the coastal road that heads down to the port, including Petrou Ralli, gets pedestrianized. While it does make parking difficult, it creates a beautiful space for an evening walk past cafes, restaurants, bars, stores, and gelato shops.
Discover Ano Syros
The second most visited town on the island – Ano Syros. This medieval village perched at the top of the hill is accessible from Ermoupoli on foot, as long as you’re willing to commit to an endless incline up some occasionally slippery stairs. If you can, it’s about 30-45 minutes from Miaouli Square.
Visit the Capuchin Church
One of the highest points in town, the Capuchin Church dates back to the 1600s. Dedicated to St. John the Baptist, it’s a really stunning Catholic Church that’s worth the hike to visit.
Go to the Cathedral of San Giorgio
The Cathedral of St. George is another beautiful Catholic Church in the area. The interior is especially colorful and stunning.
Shop at the Piatsa
Part of the island’s artistic and cultural heritage is evident in the number of designers, artists, and craftspeople here. Walk amongst handmade jewelry stores, gift shops, and shops with wooden crafts – I Love Wood is one of my favorites.
The Piatsa gets really busy after sunset, which is fun for those who like to people watch, but not so much for those who want to easily walk through the narrow streets.
Head to the Markos Vamvakaris Exhibit
One of the beautiful things about Syros is that you get a glimpse into Greek arts and culture while exploring the island. Get a glimpse into the life of Markos Vamvakaris, a Greek musical legend nicknamed the “patriarch of the rembetiko”, a style of music.
His music touched many people throughout the years, but one of his most famous compositions directly referenced the island of Syros. Titled “Frangosyriani”, it may very well be one of the most well-known Greek songs of all time. The lyrics talk about a woman from Syros the singer is in love with.
Vamvakaris was not only born on the island, but specifically in Ano Syros in 1905. The island is incredibly proud of their local boy; one of the walls by the Piatsa, next to some stairs, is adorned with the lyrics to his song.
What to Do in Ano Meria
When you first arrive in Syros by ferry from Athens, you will pass what looks like a completely dry, rocky, deserted, part of the island. “Oh no, is there even a town”, you might think in a panic, before rounding either side and arriving at Ermoupoli.
However, there are quite a few things to do in Ano Meria, especially for those looking to remove themselves from the more crowded hotspots of the island.
Chatzakis Winery
Most frequent visitors to Syros never discover the fact that there are wineries on the north part of the island. One of the best is Chatzakis Winery, where you can enjoy a wine tasting from varieties produced on the slopes right below the winery, while admiring a beautiful sunset.
Syros Hiking
If you want to explore the rougher side of the island, take a trip by foot with the Syros hiking group. They will take you on some amazing walks, and you can explore a part of Syros most people never see.
Best Beaches on Syros Island
Many Greeks will tell you that Syros isn’t really known for its beaches, and they’d be right. However, I think that’s a shame, as the island has some truly beautiful, crystal-clear water to swim in.
The beaches in Syros, with only a couple of exceptions, tend to almost uniformly be sandy and stay shallow for quite a distance from shore. This makes Syros a very family-friendly place to go swimming.
Galissas Beach
Galissas Beach is one of the most popular beaches on the island. It has plenty of lounge chairs, though they tend to be among the priciest in Syros (between 10 and 30 Euros depending on proximity to the water, day of the week, and month).
Kini Beach
Best known for its sunset, Kini Beach is equally good for a daytime swim and a sunset meal. It faces due west, and has a beautiful sandy beach protected by the bay surrounding it. Kini used to be a small fishing village. It retains a lot of its tiny-town charm to this day.
Agathopes
Another incredibly shallow beach – you can walk out over what feels like 100 feet and still not have the water above your neck – Agathopes is one of the more popular beaches on the island.
As you face the water, on the left you will find more relaxed beach tavernas and cafes. On the right you will find Ono Concept Syros, one of the few attempts on the island to become more like nearby Mykonos and Paros in terms of an upscale Tulum-like vibe.
While it’s unique compared to other beach bars on the island, you should also be prepared for longer waits and steep prices at Ono.
“Asteria” – Ciel
Though the official name of the beach bar here is Ciel, a lot of the locals still call the actual beach/water “Asteria”. I say water because there is no actual sandy beach, just cafes on concrete overlooking the deep blue water near the entrance to Ermoupoli.
However, Ciel is one of the most popular places to go for a view, thanks to the iconic view and its proximity to Ermoupoli. The crowd gets lively after 2 PM, blasting a combo of Greek and dance music, so if you want a quieter experience, come early.
Megas Gialos
One of the many family-friendly Syros beaches. Megas Gialos has clear, blue water; however, the beach itself isn’t that big. It’s a good idea to connect with the people charging for lounge chairs here and ask them to hold one for you on upcoming days, around the time you’ll be arriving.
Delfini Beach
For many locals who want to avoid Kini on its more crowded days, or during the weekend, Delfini is a great alternative. A nearby, smaller beach, less known by tourists, Delfini offers equally beautiful water and fewer crowds.
Incredible Syros Restaurants
To Tsipouradiko Tis Mirsinis
Though this traditional taverna is under new management from the owners of Ciel, the food is as exquisite as ever, if more modern and updated. Head down near the port to enjoy the Greek flavors of this restaurant, accompanied by either ouzo or tsipouro – after all, it’s a “tsipouradiko”.
Avant Garden
Nestled in a courtyard right off of Miaouli Square, Avant Garden feels like a little oasis in the middle of the city center. It has Mediterranean food with a modern, upscale twist. As the name implies, it has a lush, garden-like atmosphere. The only thing I would keep in mind is that on warmer nights, it can get really hot, as the courtyard is below street level and the heat tends to sink.
Cantina Analogue
Cantina Analogue is a great choice for brunch and lunch, in addition to dinner. It’s quite vegan-friendly, for those with vegetarian dietary preferences, and has a nice antique vibe in its decor and ambiance.
Sta Vaporia
As the name suggests, Sta Vaporia is in the Vaporia neighborhood overlooking the sea below. The restaurant serves great food, amazing cocktails, and offers a beautiful view of Syros’ colorful buildings jutting out into the water.
Apanochoritissa
A traditional taverna well known and loved by locals in Ano Syros. Be prepared to walk up quite a few steps, but know that the dishes are absolutely worth it.
Calmo Mare
Despite the Italian-sounding name, Calmo Mare is a traditional Greek mezediko on Foinikas Beach. I highly recommend you book ahead as there’s limited seating. Come view the sunset colors over the water while enjoying the delicious food.
Dio Tzitzikia St’Almirikia
Next to the eponymous Allou Yiallou, one of the most famous restaurants in Syros, Dio Tzitzikia St’Almirikia is located on Kini Beach. Though Allou Yiallou is better known, its service and quality have suffered in recent years, perhaps due to the massive influx of tourists dining there. Dio Tzitzikia St’Almirikia is more casual, but you can count on faster service and great food. Best of all, you still get an incredible view of the sunset at Kini Beach.
Bars and Nightlife in Syros
Lacking the party vibe of other islands, Syros is better known for great wines and cocktails than partying till 6 AM. However, that option also exists for those who want a late night. Here are the best bars on Syros island.
Kuchiko
One of the most popular cocktail bars in the town of Ermoupoli is Kuchiko. It’s hidden in an alley just off the main town square, separate from the busy streets of the town’s center. It’s known for great drinks in a laidback atmosphere. Chairs and tables are packed into the street, and if it’s peak tourist season, you will most likely have to wait for a table. Enjoy the projection on the wall or browse the menu to make your decision while waiting.
Theosis Bar
Theosis shares an owner with Kuchiko, which is perhaps why it has a similar vibe. Located in Ano Syros, the bar seating is fully outside, most of it on stools and pillows places on nearby stairs. The cocktails, however, are next level delicious.
Ciel
Ciel goes through many phases throughout each day, from a relaxing coffee spot in the morning to a beach bar in full swing during the afternoon to a gorgeous restaurant at night. It also has one of the most famous views of the island.
Sip a coffee or a cocktail while taking in the Church of St. Nicholas overlooking the pastel houses and cliff face that drops into the gorgeous blue Aegean. The water here is stunning, with deep blues and blue-greens mixing to form a sparkling, yet clear swimming spot. The only drawback is there’s no sandy beach, and you have to dive immediately into deep water – not recommended for those who can’t swim.
Boheme del Mar
A favorite for local university students, Boheme del Mar is a bit out of the way from the center of town. Walk towards the Old Port, and you will encounter a more relaxed, and of course, bohemian bar with a younger crowd. Though Boheme del Mar has its share of patrons during the summer, the crowds really show up during the colder months, when the university is open.
Ano The Upper Cocktail Bar
Ano the Upper Cocktail Bar arguably has one of the best views of Syros. Jutting out from the lower elevations of Ano Syros, it overlooks the port and a fair portion of Ermoupoli. It’s a very relaxing bar, located a couple of blocks away from the bustling main pedestrian street of Ano Syros, with a very stereotypical Greek island decor.
MouSouTou Syros
One of the most highly rated bars on the island, locals go to MouSouTou Syros mostly for their aperitifs and Aperol Spritzes. If you want a drink before it gets dark, this is a good place to visit. Best of all, MouSouTou is located on a quieter side street in Ermoupoli, so you won’t have crowds constantly walking by in the evening.
Suerte
Not necessarily a place I would recommend for a chill cocktail. However, Suerte is known for being open much later than most other bars. If you’ve already had your relaxed drinks and want to continue the night, head to Suerte, at the intersection of the coastal road in Ermoupolis and the main street heading up to Miaouli Square.
You can easily keep going until 4-5 AM. On weekend nights, you may have to get a table. It also helps to be into Greek music, as that’s probably what’s going to start playing after a certain point in the evening.
Where to Stay in Syros
Though you can stay anywhere you desire on the island of Syros, including on one of its many beaches, I highly, highly recommend staying within the city of Ermoupoli. It will make most of your dining and nightlife options accessible by foot, and the city is the best place to be after the sun goes down.
For a quieter option that’s within Ermoupoli without being right on the busy port, coastal road, or Miaouli Square, check out the beautiful neighborhood of Vaporia.
Arion Hotel
Enjoy coffee on a balcony overlooking all the shades of blue below from your room at the Arion Hotel. The hotel is in Vaporia and juts out over the sea near Ciel. You will have easy access to both the water and the city center of Ermoupoli just down the street.
Villa Selena
A newly renovated neoclassical house-turned-boutique hotel, Villa Selena is located right on the automotive road of Vaporia, overlooking the water. Head up to the rooftop for an incredible view of both the sunset over the water, and the famous blue dome of St. Nicholas Church next door. Villa Selena still feels like a private luxury home, while simultaneously offering comfort and hospitality to guests.
Aristide Hotel
Best known for being a sustainable, eco-friendly yet luxurious choice for lodging, Aristide Hotel has attracted a fair amount of new hotel guests as well as customers to its restaurant and bar. It’s especially perfect for couples, and some rooms feature private plunge pools you can enjoy as well.
Hotel Hermes
One of the oldest hotels on the island, the epitome of luxury for decades, Hotel Hermes is by the Old Port, and in addition to travelers, attracted a lot of locals for dinner and dessert. It’s still an excellent choice for lodging, and puts you within walking distance of Miaouli Square and coastal attractions without having to walk up and down any steps.
Getting Around the Island
If you plan on mostly staying in Ermoupoli and Ano Syros, and don’t mind walking, you don’t necessarily need a car for Syros. You can grab a taxi to head to the beach, or eat on the sea at sunset. However, if you plan on exploring a lot of the island, a rental may be a good idea.
Syros Car Rental
Pros: You can easily get to destinations during the day without waiting for a cab or bus to arrive. If you are staying anywhere outside of Ermoupoli, except perhaps for Ano Syros, you will absolutely need a car to get into the city at night.
Cons: Many roads are narrow and slightly intimidating for those unfamiliar with Greek island streets. Parking at the beaches is going to be very difficult during the peak summer season, and the coastal road of Ermoupoli becomes mostly pedestrianized at night, making parking in the city difficult as well in the evening.
Taxis and Buses
Pros: You don’t have to deal with parking, or driving on a Greek island. For most tourists, that’s enough to seal the deal. The bus system is generally reliable and connects destinations on the island quite well, especially for Greece.
Cons: You may sometimes face waits, especially during the summer. It’s best to book a taxi ahead of time – book in the morning for nighttime reservations. Though it won’t always be necessary, you’re better off ensuring the taxi will be there.
The Best Way – Walking
Pros: Ermoupoli and Ano Syros were designed to be explored via walking. The majority of streets areonly accessible on foot. You will also get to see and appreciate a lot of the island’s beautiful neoclassical architecture. Make discoveries – whether harming alleys or cute shops – along the way.
Cons: Be prepared for stairs – endless stairs – especially if you’re staying in Vaporia or Ano Syros. Also, you will have to rely on buses or taxis to get to most beaches. One of the few exceptions is Ciel, a swimming spot located in town.
Local Recommendation for Transportation
If you have mobility issues, would rather not walk much or climb many stairs, or are staying outside the Ermoupoli area, I would rent a car. Otherwise, I would rely on walking mixed with the occasionally cab or bus ride.
When to Visit Syros
For those looking for a Greek island summer experience, it’s best to visit Syros between June and September. However, the great thing about Syros is that it retains a pretty sizeable permanent population throughout the year. May and October, for example, are beautiful times to explore the island with fewer crowds.
Since the island is known for beautiful architecture, as well as great dining and drinks, Syros is also one of the best Greek islands to visit year-round. In fact, many Athenians, especially those from more artistic circles, have bought and renovated houses in Ano Syros. They occasionally escape to the island of Syros to enjoy a slower pace of life.
Weather in Syros
Thanks to the winds in this part of the Aegean, summers in Syros are not nearly as hot as the cauldron that is Athens. Expect breezy, warm conditions during the summer months, and rainier, chillier conditions during the winter.
Local Tip: For women travelers, you may want to consider this while you’re packing. I quickly learned that short, unstructured skirts were impossible to wear without flashing half the island.